It’s nice to live in the modern world, where a Jewish kid from Southern California can pursue a doctorate in Mexican studies, spend nine years cooking Italian food and later open a blockbuster Mexican restaurant, Comal, in downtown Berkeley.
Perennially packed since it opened three years ago, the food at Comal expresses Matt Gandin’s passion for the food of Mexico, but Gandin pushes beyond the usual, offering large-format feasts cooked over a wood-burning grill.
When white shrimp ceviche is on the menu, be sure to make room for it. The dish thrums with chile and lime, its snappy white shrimp “cooked” by the acid. Happily, it’s a simple recipe to replicate at home, a no-cook dish that’s good any time.